Chris von Wangenheim

The German fashion photographer Chris von Wangenheim worked between the years of 1968 and 1981 shooting for today's top publications. Though his career was relatively short, his images gained notoriety and he became known as one of the most avant-gardes photographers of the time. Wangenheim was born in Brieg, Germany (now Brzegresp.Poland) where he studied architecture before relocating to New York City and pursuing a career in fashion photography. He became an assistant for the iconic photographer James Moore during his first two years in the city before starting his own studio in 1968. He promptly secured work with Harper’s Bazaar and went on to produce now-iconic imagery for every top fashion publication of the ’70s, including Vogue, Esquire, Playboy, Interview, and Viva magazine. He also created legendary campaigns for Valentino, Dior, Calvin Klein, and Revlon over the course of his lifetime.

Chris von Wangenheim’s work is ranked next to Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin in his encapsulation of the 1970s zeitgeist. His work was highly provocative and challenged societal norms of the time. He daringly captured the darkest and most unpalatable aspects of culture in his images. With an unparalleled ability to mix violence and elegance, he crafted images in which violence was suspended in highly polished scenes. He expertly played with and manipulated the sharp contrasts of social norms in the 70s. His images were demonstrations of the inescapability of violence between class and social standings. His images were meant to shock and challenge society, he daringly captured contradictions of the time, material decadence, and contemptible aspects in the context of the tumultuous '70s. His work provoked thought among his viewers, often depicting what was considered fringe ideas at the time.

Chris Von Wangemheim is responsible for the pivotal moment in model Gia Carangi’s career. In an image titled Gia Carangi & and Sandy Linter, 1979, which can be seen here, model Gia Carangi is posed with makeup artist Sandy Linter on opposite sides of a chain-link fence. Shot on his set after a shoot for Vogue magazine, Sandy Linter shared with  The Selects Gallery: “After the shoot, as I was packing my makeup, he said to me: "I would like to do some personal photos of you and Gia," and he walked out of the room. I said, “ok, fine.” Then he came back into the room and he said, “nude.” And the hairdresser turned around and looked at me and was like, “are you out of your mind?” And I said, “ok, accept”. The only thing – I would keep my boots on because I’m very short and I have to have my boots on.” This shoot created what would become Carangi's breakout moment, she became considered as the first supermodel. Carangi became one of Wangenheim's favorite models to work with and he photographed her on several occasions throughout her career.

On 9 March 1981, Chris von Wangenheim was killed in a car accident at the age of only 39. He left behind a strong legacy, which remained largely unnoticed for 40 years. On September 15, 2015, Rizzoli published the book Gloss: The Work of Chris von Wangenheim by Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha. This book contains over two hundred provocative and iconic images including never-before-seen outtakes from memorable shoots with such supermodels as Christie Brinkley, Lisa Taylor, and the late Gia Carangi.

 

In May 2019, his work was presented to the Public for the first time in New York City during Art New York fair presented by The Selects Gallery which has exclusive access to many of his images. Regine Jaffry, Chris von Wangenheim’s wife and muse was in attendance for this historical moment.